I'll just copy my post from the assemblergames forums:
I'm working on a PS3 for a good friend of mine (well, he owns a shop and bought it in a lot of stuff). At first, it was basically derelict - no red light when plugged in and switched on in the back.
So, I strip it down to the power supply, crack that open and I find two fuses.
The first one (looks to be a 10A/250v), nearest the initial AC plug tests fine. The second, found on the other end between some voltage regulators, isn't.
So I ran to the shop, nabbed a 4A 250v fast-acting fuse, installed a fuse holder with leads (just in case (IMG:
style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)) and slapped it together enough to test.
Pop, the lamp in the same power strip dimmed and the fuse blew. Bummer.
Near the fuse, it states "T4AH/250V". As much as I can gather, the H stands for "high current". Is it likely necessary that this exact fuse is required? It seems odd that current (IE amps, correct?) would be listed as a number (as always) but then a fuse could be "high current" as well? I obviously don't understand this aspect, so... some insight?
Slow blow fuse? Still blows.
I COULD just buy a new PSU, sure, but that'd go against my own nature of trying to salvage stuff.
Does anyone have any experience with these? Perhaps some key components to start testing? As a reminder, it's not the main AC fuse that's blowing, but the second one near the middle of the board, surrounded by what looks like a lot of voltage regulators or transistors or rectifiers or... you know, those vertical ones screwed to a sheet of aluminum (er, copper here) heatsink. I haven't dug into them yet, but if they might be key I'll start looking them up and testing them. Surely something is shorted out.
Being a 250v fuse I'd assume some serious voltage is going through this thing, right? Or is this perhaps just the most cost effective way of protecting that circuit?
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Topic: Ps3 Blows 4a Fuse In Power Supply (Read 102 times)